The Story of Champagne - Part 4
If you have not already read the earlier chapters of this fascinating story, I highly recommend that you read Part 1,
Part 2 and
Part 3 [ found in our past newsletters
] before you continue on with Part 4 below.
The Story of Champagne continues:-
In France, the declaration of war against Germany on the 3rd of August 1914, was initially
met with widespread enthusiasm and despite the terrible experiences of the Franko-Prussian war
[ circa 1870 ], there was a general belief that the French with their élan and bravery would prevail.
However, after only three weeks and a series of bloody engagements, one hundred and sixty thousand French soldiers lay dead and under the relentless
onslaught of the German's big guns and superior fire-power, France's campaign was in tatters.
The Champenois knew that the storm would soon be upon them and in early September with the French army in full retreat, the Germans marched
triumphantly into Champagne's two largest cities, Reims and Épernay.
After several days of "adjustment" - taunting by
the Champenois and displays of overpowering military might by the Germans - life
began to settle into a new normality. The Germans, sure of ultimate victory,
viewed Champagne as a valuable new fiefdom and were keen for champagne
production to resume as soon as possible. The mayor of Reims posted a public notice,
pleading with his citizens: "I beg you to avoid any provocation. It is not
your responsibility to try and change events; it is your responsibility not to aggravate
them. We beg of you silence, dignity and prudence."
In Épernay, champagne maker Maurice Pol-Roger
assumed the roll of mayor [ all of the public servants had fled ] and used his
influence and personal fortune [ not to mention a great deal of bravery ] to
ensure the peace: "I will stay no matter what happens, to reassure and to
comfort those who wish to leave but cannot. And I will do all that is humanly
possible to defend them."
The Germans now full of confidence, paused to regroup and resupply
before moving towards the grand prize: Paris. What they hadn't consider however,
was the resilience and ingenuity of the French troops who opposed them and as
they crossed the Marne river in mid September they found themselves severely
tested.
The "Battle of the Marne" as it became
known, was fought within sight of Pommery and Greno's famous champagne house,
where the vignerons were granted a ring-side seat as the opposing armies
exchanged avalanches of deadly fire. Gradually it became clear that the French
were gaining the upper hand and just as suddenly as they had begun, the
occupations of Reims and Épernay were over.
In Reims the mood was euphoric, with celebrations
and joyful tears accompanied by many a glass of champagne. The Germans had been repelled,
however, it was not the decisive victory that many thought it to be and far from
being defeated, "The Boche" were busily digging themselves into the
hills outside the city. The war was not over, rather it had only just begun and the very next day, the sounds of celebration
were replaced by the roar of German artillery. The obliteration of Reims has
begun!
As the shelling intensified, the Remois looked on
in horror and disbelief as the German guns began targeting their magnificent
cathedral, where France's
Kings and Queens had been crowned and emperors created. Despite the worldwide
outrage it caused, the Germans knew that by destroying the cathedral, they would be dealing a devastating blow to
French morale.
Over the next few years Champagne was transformed from a land of vineyards,
fields and beautiful towns and villages, into a blood-soaked moonscape,
scared with trenches and barbed wire. Reims suffered
1,051 consecutive days of bombardment which would result in ninety-eight percent
of the city being destroyed! To escape the "avalanche of iron and fire"
above, the Remois were forced to flee underground to live in the crayères [ wine caves ]
and the world over, Reims became known as "the
martyred city".
The German's long range artillery [ their largest gun, Big Bertha had a range of 75 miles ]
inflicted serious damage on virtually every champagne house including
Ruinart Père and Fils, Pommery and Greno, Roederer and Möet and Chandon. As a
result, just like the people of Reims, champagne production was forced to flee
underground into the crayères.
In spite of gunfire, shelling, gas attacks and unexploded bombs, the
Champenois [ including women, children and the elderly ] heroically continued the
work of tending and harvesting what was left of their grapevines and became a symbol of French national
pride and resistance in the face of overwhelming adversity. Many would loose
their lives so-doing!
1917 began as an impossible year for France and the Champenois, with the war
bogged down in a deadly stalemate and everything needed for champagne production
[ and just about everything else ] in extremely short supply.
Apart from export to countries like the USA and Russia, demand for champagne was
understandably at
rock bottom and then to make matters worse, came news of the Russian Revolution and
subsequent loss of one of France's key allies. The only saving grace was that as a result
of attacks on their shipping and the discovery that Germany was attempting to coax Mexico
into the war [ promising them the return of Texas, Arizona and New Mexico ], the
Americans had decided to join the conflict, which until then they had seen as purely European.
For the Champenois the October Revolution was a devastating blow that left
bills for millions of bottles of champagne unpaid. The new communist leadership
branded champagne a "degenerate capitalist habit" and declared that
vodka was the patriotic drink for Russians.
For Louis Roederer in particular, it was a total disaster! Eighty percent of his sales went
to Russia and his production was geared to the sweeter style of champagne
preferred by Czar
Alexander II. He had even produced a champagne for the Czar's exclusive
consumption in elegant clear crystal bottles [ rather than the normal thick dark
green ones ], which he appropriately named "Cristal". With a huge
stock of champagne so sweet that nobody else wanted it, he faced utter ruin and
to quote a Roederer spokesman: "The only reason our firm survived, that we
still exist today, was that no one else in Champagne had any money to buy us
out."
With the American "doughboys" now arriving in significant numbers, Germany was
forced to mobilize and pin its hopes on taking Paris - they believed that the
rest of France would soon follow. Achieving their goal however, meant pushing
though - you guessed it - Champagne!
In July 1918, the second "Battle of the Marne" began in earnest and
the Kaiser himself came to watch the "drive for final victory". After failing to take what was left of Reims, the Germans
surged
towards the Marne river where they walked straight into miles of close-laid artillery
batteries. Five minutes of withering fire later, the German campaign and dream of taking Paris were
effectively over. Four months later, on November 11, they signed the
armistice to end the war.
Hundreds of thousands of bottles of champagne were "liberated" in
the euphoria of victory that followed but amidst the joy, was the tragic realization that a
whole generation had been practically wiped out. Champagne alone had lost over half
of its population with entire towns and villages wiped off the map, never to
return!
The Champenois were now faced with the daunting task of resurrecting their
lives and of course their vineyards, which in many cases resembled a scene from
Dante's Inferno. They soon discovered that while the Great War raged, another
battle had been taking place unseen. Not only was the soil shredded by
bombardment and poisoned by the detritus of war but the vine destroying parasite
Phylloxera had continued its inexorable spread. This meant that all of their
vines would need to be uprooted, grafted onto Phylloxera resistant American root
stocks and replanted.
On the positive side, with the end of the war everyone was eager to blot out
the nightmare they had just lived through and champagne was the perfect tool. It
was an exhilarating time, skirts got shorter, women cropped their hair and
Chanel No 5 was invented. Josephine Baker and Sidney Bechet mesmerized audiences
with a new kind of music: jazz. The roaring 1920 's were light, gay and
sparkling, just like champagne. Not even prohibition in the USA could dampen the
soaring spirits of the Champenois - they simply moved their sales underground to
smugglers and gangsters, one of the most famous being Al Capone.
However, all was not well in the Western world and in October 1929 the New
York Stock Exchange took a sudden dive and then tumbled out of control. The Great depression
had begun.
As a result there was now a glut of champagne[ over 150 million
bottles ] and customers had simply dried up. Many champagne producers were
reduced to making cheap sloppy wines and even still wines! Many simply
couldn't continue and left for the cities, where some were even reduced to begging on
street corners!
The Champenois needed a saviour and as times were desperate, they weren't
going to let a little thing like the truth stand in their way. The saviour they
invented was Dom Pérignon!
Soon the reclusive monk from Hautevilliers was being hailed as the
"father of champagne" and celebrations were announced to mark the
250th anniversary of Dom Pérignon's "invention" of sparkling
champagne [ in fact,
as we saw in Part 1,
no-one had actually invented champagne ]. No one seemed to mind that the date was arbitrary and that
the Champenois had
tried unsuccessful 18 years earlier to do the same thing for the 200th
anniversary!
What was important was that it worked and champagne sales soared with the
image of Dom Pérignon holding a frothing bottle of champagne exclaiming, "I have tasted the
stars". To this day his name is attached to Möet and Chandon's flagship
cuvee.
By 1935 the worst of the Great Depression was over. Then out of the ashes of post-war Germany, came Adolph Hitler and
World War II - the third war against Germany in only 75 years! With the horrors
of the Great War still vivid in their memories and the knowledge that they were
now basically a nation of children, old people and cripples, the French
wondered: will there be a France at all?
Within a month of the German invasion, France had surrendered and in the initial
chaos, over two million bottles of champagne were pilfered by exuberant German
soldiers. Then, under the orders of Field Marshal Goring, the Champenois were
forced to agree to provide 350,000 bottles of champagne a week, at little more
than a pittance. Some went to supply the German controlled restaurants in France
and the rest were destined for the Third Reich back in Germany. This amounted to
little more than legalized plunder but the Champenois were relieved that their towns and villages
had been spared the massive destruction of the last war and that there were no battles
amongst their vines.
Over the years of World War II the Champenois resisted as best they could by
hiding as much of their top marques as possible and by using bad corks, dirty
bottles and adulterating their cuvees. In an indirect way they also helped the
allies by sharing information about the destination of large champagne orders,
which often presaged the location of German activities - for example their campaign
in Egypt.
By mid 1944 with D-Day approaching, the Germans had planted explosives in order to destroy Épernay's cellars and bridges
but thankfully General Patton's army caught them completely by surprise and Épernay
and its buried treasure was spared.
In the spring of 1945 General Eisenhower moved his headquarters to Reims [ where
so much suffering had occurred 30 years earlier ] to await Germany's unconditional surrender.
The last explosion of World War II was the popping of champagne corks from bottles of the acclaimed 1934 vintage of Pommery and
Greno.
Every spring in Champagne, the vines begin to weep. The French call it
"les pleures" [ the time of tears ], when sap begins flowing from the
wounds inflicted by pruning. Throughout the centuries, Champagne and its vines
have had good reason to weep, given so many wars and other traumas. But the
tears the vines shed are a symbol of hope, a sign the vines have survived
another winter and that another season of growth is ahead.
I hope you have enjoyed our journey through the history of Champagne and the
iconic wines that proudly bear that name and I trust that you will reflect on
the toil, ingenuity and valour of the Champenois when next you open a bottle of
champagne.