Article printed April 2001

Jim Llewellyn and Robbi Zeck travel the world exploring places of aromatic beauty. Here they share the Balinese secrets of health, beauty and rejuvenation. So, sit back, relax and be transported to paradise

In a world that is increasingly busy and continues to ask more and more of our time and energy, it is not surprising to see a great desire by people to seek out havens of serenity and natural beauty. Timeless places, sanctuaries of the spirit, where they can feel nourished, restored and rejuvenated.

More people are discovering that far from being a mere luxury; massages, water therapies and beauty treatments are a healthy necessity, offering us the time and atmosphere to de-stress, re-balance and gear up for the demands of everyday life.

Spas in Bali are devoted to pampering both mind and body, beautiful sacred spaces, delivering one to a place of peace, serenity and contentment where aroma, colour and sound blend together to relax, replenish and enliven the spirit.

Bali is an island of temples set against a backdrop of verdant rice fields and soaring volcanoes, beautiful beaches and glorious sunsets. Mt Agung ‘The Mother Mountain’ looks down on a people rich in art, culture and religious belief with a deep sense of ritual, communal spirit and love of beauty. It is the perfect environment where mind, body and spirit can feel truly nurtured and at peace.

Balinese spa treatments are a gentle seduction of the body, mind and spirit with fragrant hands; healing, nurturing and relaxing weary souls that are worn out from the demands of everyday living.

Bali is situated just south of the equator and was one of the ‘Spice Islands’ of the then Dutch East Indies. Although it is now part of the Indonesian archipelago, Bali and its people have developed separately from their neighbours with their own unique art, culture and religion, based on the Hindu principles of tolerance, devotion and communal worship. The deep inner strength and grace of the Balinese is rooted in their traditional Hindu beliefs the glue that binds Bali together.

Time honoured therapies from Bali have been passed down through the generations and the Balinese have a strong belief of the healing touch. The purpose of the spa experience in Bali is to create an environment and experience where an atmosphere of holistic well-being is created. Balinese spas cleanse both body and soul, incorporating the traditional beauty and healing rituals of Bali in harmony with the surrounding environment.

Treatments include Balinese massage with aromatic oils from the island, exotic body treatments such as Javanese Mandi Lulur and the Balinese spice massage using Ginger, Clove and Nutmeg. Spa menus further appeal to the senses with a wide selection of baths and wraps created from volcanic clays, sea salts, flowers and indigenous plants.

The Balinese, unlike most western societies touch all of the time. From birth, babies are always in constant contact with their mother and other family members. It is normal to see adults walking hand in hand as well as touching and stroking each other. Compassion and caring are deeply rooted in the Balinese culture and this is naturally passed on through massage to all of the family, from birth to death.

The techniques used in Balinese massage include percussion, long firm strokes, stretching, skin flicking, acupressure (especially on the feet) and the use of aromatic oils such as Ylang-ylang, Sandalwood, Jasmine and Vetiver. Balinese massage is a ritual that has been practiced for generations with caring hands that instinctively know where discomfort and congestion reside and how to soothe them away.

Javanese Mandi Lulur is a traditional treatment, which originated centuries ago in the palaces of central Java. It was here that many secrets of health and beauty, (utilising the naturally occurring herbs, spices, foods, clays and minerals) were created and used for the benefit of the royal family.

The Mandi Lulur or ‘royal wedding’ treatment, is traditionally given to women each day during the week preceding their wedding, to soften and sweeten their skin and prepare them for this most important of days.

The treatment begins with a one hour Balinese massage after which the entire body is painted with the light brown granular aromatic paste the traditional Javanese Lulur. The Lulur paste is made from a blend of finely ground rice, nuts, turmeric root, ginger, cinnamon and sandalwood powder, ground together in a mortar and pestle. A little water is then added and a few drops of Jasmine oil to form a granular paste. Once the paste is dry it is gently rubbed off to exfoliate and polish the skin. The remaining paste is then rinsed off with warm water. Traditionally this is done with a coconut ladle dipped into your waiting bath.

After a cleansing shower; cool, fresh natural yoghurt is splashed and lightly rubbed all over the body. The yoghurt’s enzymes stimulate the cell activity and restore the pH balance of the skin, which feels as soft as silk after the yoghurt is washed away.

The final and most wonderful step is to relax is a warm bath that has been strewn with aromatic flowers such as jasmine, tuberose, frangipani, gardenia and ylang-ylang. Thoughts of royal princesses and fragrant gardens fill your mind as you sip a herbal tea and float away on a fragrant cloud of bliss.

The Balinese Boreh is a traditional herbal scrub used at the end of a hard working day to relieve muscle aches, increase blood circulation and create relaxation. It is also used as a treatment for headaches and fever.

The Boreh paste is applied all over your body avoiding sensitive areas, and then your body is wrapped with cloth to keep the paste in contact with your skin. The sensation is of deep penetrating heat that melts away your tension and at the same time invigorates. Reflexology and gentle massage can also be used during the treatment.

After 5 or 10 minutes it is necessary to rub the skin vigorously to cause the paste to flake away, a shower is then needed to remove the remaining paste preferably in an outside garden shower. Moisturise and relax by drinking a cup of herbal tea, which will also rehydrate and cleanse your body.

As well as its relaxing and curative properties the Boreh is also wonderful for exfoliating and softening the skin. It’s a fragrant paste made from a combination of powdered sandalwood, whole cloves, ginger, cinnamon, coriander seeds, rice powder, turmeric root and nutmeg, all ground in a mortar and pestle and combined with water to make a thick consistency.

After years of enjoying wonderful massages and spa treatments around the world the seductive opulence of the Balinese spa massage call me onward into deeper relaxation. The smoky scent of sweet incense drifts from a flower-laden bowl placed as an offering for the spirits and I lie face down on the massage couch to be greeted by a tiny vase of violet orchids, red hibiscus and fragrant frangipanis. My masseur pampers me thoroughly with a sublime massage and I sink a little further into lingering bliss.

I vow to return often to this island of a thousand temples, breathtaking sunsets, full moon ceremonies, luxurious tropical gardens and where the emphasis on life is simplicity, balance and a return to nature.

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